Difficulty:Beginner Max Growth Size:8 cm Temperament:Peaceful, community Water Temperature: 23-26 pH Level: 6.4-7.0 Diet: Omnivorous. Eats most aquarium foods, will also pick at green alga Scissortail Rasbora Habitat and Care Scissortail rasboras require plenty of open swimming area and do best in longer tanks. Although not fussy about décor, the most natural setting would be one that includes plants such as Java moss, driftwood, and rocks of various sizes to mimic a riverbed habitat. Subdued lighting will recreate the typical forested habitat in nature. However, scissortails will adapt to a wide range of habitats. Filtration is important, as scissortails do best in good quality water. They are naturally accustomed to moving water and would enjoy a current such as that provided by a power head. Water should be soft with a pH of neutral to slightly acidic. The use of peat or blackwater additives can help replicate the optimum water parameters. A darker substrate is preferred, and the tank should be tightly covered, as scissortails are prone to jumping. When bringing this species home, it is wise to match water parameters from the tank they came from, as closely as possible, as they do not adapt well to sudden changes in water conditions. Take care to acclimate them for a sufficient length of time to ensure they are not shocked. Scissortail Rasbora Diet Scissortails readily accept all foods but prefer live foods whenever possible. In nature, their diet consists primarily of insects. However, they will accept frozen foods, freeze-dried foods as well as flake foods. Brine shrimp, daphnia and any type of worm are an excellent supplemental food, particularly when conditioning before breeding. Sexual Differences Sexual differences in scissortails are not readily discernible. Males are typically smaller and more slender than females, and when ready to spawn, are more intensely colored. Females are generally larger and rounder in the belly, particularly when viewed from above. Breeding of the Scissortail Rasbora Scissortails are egg-scatterers that are relatively easy to breed. For best fry yield, a separate breeding tank is recommended and should be fitted with either a mesh for the eggs to fall through or spawning mats. Fill the tank about half full of water that is slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.5) and at a temperature of 77 to 82 F (25 to 28 C). Lighting should be minimal, and filtration should be a sponge type filter. Adults should be conditioned with live foods, such as bloodworms, daphnia, and brine shrimp to prepare for spawning. When the female is full of eggs, place the pairs in the breeding tank. To induce spawning, add small amounts of cooler softer water several times throughout the course of the day. Continue feeding live, or frozen live foods, until spawning takes place. The breeder pair will make several deposits of adhesive eggs over the spawning medium. Once eggs have been laid, the adults should be removed promptly, as they will readily eat their own eggs. The eggs are sensitive to light and fungus, so lighting should be minimal and the tank should be kept very clean. Frequent water changes are recommended, as well as the use of an antifungal treatment for the water. After approximately 24 hours the eggs will hatch and initially feed off the egg sac. After another two days, the fry becomes free-swimming and must be fed freshly hatched brine shrimp and other small fry foods.